Showing posts with label matte. Show all posts
Showing posts with label matte. Show all posts

Saturday, 3 May 2014

Inglot matte eyeshadows swatches and review

Not going to lie - all the messages about how you miss my blog make me feel both equal parts loved and guilty! I've been travelling solidly for the past 6 weeks (spending no longer than 5 days in any one country) which was obviously not conducive to either makeup or blogging.

As an inadequate apology here are a few holiday snaps:

In one of these photos I've filled my eyebrows in so this collage is vaguely relevant to makeup!

Now, without further adu here're my swatches and review of Inglot's matte eyeshadows:

Inglot package each eyeshadow, blush and I assume concealer, lipstick etc pan individually as I've shown below. Although this large amount of packaging wastage makes my environmentally conscious cricket cringe I can't argue it's extremely effective, hygienic and aesthetically pleasing.


I purchased eleven Inglot eyeshadows - nine metallic and two matte - around Christmas last year and while I adore them all I found myself reaching for the two matte taupes for almost every look I created as they were the perfect crease colours, blended effortlessly and flawlessly, and wore impeccably through all of the sweaty club dancing I am so fond of.

I'd been looking for a matte cool-toned neutral palette for a couple of months now; the Tarte Be Mattenificent palette was a strong contender and although the purple agate packaging won my heart instantly the eyeshadow quality was pretty meh. The Saucebox Etude palette was another option I liked - but they're been out of stock for about six months now (which is frankly ridiculous), and have absolutely awful customer service so I'd rather not support them.

Photo credit:
http://www.temptalia.com/
http://sauceboxcosmetics.com/

Thus, with the help of the amazing Beautylish Inglot palette builder I began building my own neutral palette which was equal parts fun and frustrating. I obviously highly recommend actually swatching the shadows yourself at an Inglot store, but if that's not possible Temptalia and other google source's swatches are actually very accurate. I ordered my palette from the UK Inglot website (as Beautylish only accepts US credit cards and ships to US addresses) and although postage was £5 regardless of how much you spend (free shipping is a weakness of mine) my package arrived less than a week later all bubble wrapped and lovely.

Top row: 360 / 363 (not new)
Second row: 391 / 329 / 326 / 378 / 358
Blush: AMC 55
Third row: 344 / 390 / 353 / 375 / 325/ 338 / 317 / 385

Aside from their phenomenal product quality and unparalleled colour and texture range my favourite thing about Inglot is the ability to mix and match their palettes as the mood strikes you - all their pans are magnetic and they offer multiple sizes of empty palettes so you can arrange and re-arrange all your eyeshadows (and brow powders/concealers/lip sticks etc) endlessly.

Since I don't know how to overlay text on my photos (sorry) I'm going to list the shade colours and names here (obviously all of them are matte):

Top Row:

  • Neutral Taupe - 360
  • Cool Taupe - 363

Middle Row:

  • Black - 391
  • Neutral dark brown - 329
  • Cool burgundy tinged dark brown - 326
  • Cool dark brown taupe - 378
  • Mid grey mauve taupe - 358

Blush:

  • Mid plummy beige pink - AMC 55

Third row:

  • Mid beige pink mauve - 344
  • Light beige pink - 390
  • Very light neutral cream - 353
  • Mid purple - 375
  • Dark purple - 325
  • Mid bright blue teal - 338
  • Mid bright green teal - 317
  • Bright mid green - 385


Top row: 360 / 363 (not new)
Second row: 391 / 329 / 326 / 378 / 358
Blush: AMC 55
Third row: 344 / 390 / 353 / 375 / 325/ 338 / 317 / 385

I cannot reinforce how amazing the quality of these mattes are - most of these took literally one swipe (with a clean finger over bare skin) to show full opacity, and all of them were incredibly soft and oh so buttery. All photos were taken with a flash.

I then pulled out some other mattes in my collection to compare the colours and texture - needless to say Inglot made it into no competition, my previous favourite mattes (Suagarpill, Laura Mercier, Urban Decay) were left biting Inglot's dust.


Top row: 360 / 363 (LM Plum Smoke / UD Tease)
Second row: 391 / 329 / 326 / 378 / 358
Blush: AMC 55
Third row: 344 / 390 / 353 / 375 / 325/ 338 / 317 / 385
(Fourth row: LM Morning Dew / Sugarpill Poison Plum / Midori)

The third and fourth shadows on the top row are Laura Mercier's Plum Smoke and Urban Deacy's Tease (from the Naked2 palette). The three swatches added as a fourth row are Laura Mercier's Morning Dew, Sugarpill's Poison Plum and Midori.


Top row: 360 / 363 (LM Plum Smoke / UD Tease)
Second row: 391 / 329 / 326 / 378 / 358
Blush: AMC 55
Third row: 344 / 390 / 353 / 375 / 325/ 338 / 317 / 385
(Fourth row: LM Morning Dew / Sugarpill Poison Plum / Midori)

Here you can see Laura Merier's Morning Dew (light neutral) is significantly less pigmented than Inglot's 353, as is Sugarpill's Poison Plum (purple) and Midori (green). Honestly I wasn't too surprised Inglot's mattes were more pigmented than Laura Mercier's as LM's are so incredibly soft they're hard to pack pigment on, and while this does make them slightly quicker to blend it's at the cost of seriously sheering out the eyeshadow.

However, Inglot out performing Sugarpill's matte brights was definitely a shock to me - I used to swear that Sugarpill's were the most pigmented, soft and blend-able mattes out there, obviously I was wrong. In comparison to Inglot's shades Sugarpill's felt grainy and applied sheer! Also, Sugarpill's mattes are not 100% matte like Inglot's are.


Top row: 360 / 363 (LM Plum Smoke / UD Tease)
Second row: 391 / 329 / 326 / 378 / 358
Blush: AMC 55
Third row: 344 / 390 / 353 / 375 / 325/ 338 / 317 / 385
(Fourth row: LM Morning Dew / Sugarpill Poison Plum / Midori)

Here you can see Laura Mercier's Plum Smoke (third shade on the top row) is a close match to Inglot's 358, but as with Morning Dew Laura Mericer's shadows were soft to their own detriment and thus required much more building than Inglot's. The last shade on the top row is Urban Decay's Tease from their Naked2 palette, when I first swatched it I couldn't believe how hard and unpigmented it was!

The Naked2 was my first ever pressed eyeshadow and palette so maybe I still think of it the way I did when I bought it a year ago ("Look at all these colours! They're so pretty and pigmented! Think of all the makeup I can do with these! Oh I'm so overwhelmed and have no idea what I'm doing..."). Tease applied patchy and I couldn't even build the swatch to full opacity, honestly I was beyond underwhelmed. Urban Decay's shadows are being notorious for under performing without a primer and being pretty awesome with one though, so that could be the issue - but it doesn't detract from the fact Inglot whipped them in making a exponentially better matte. 


Metallic colours top row: 409 / 43 / 404 / 07
Metallic colours bottom row: 452 / 446 / 445 / 399 / 154
AMC gel eyeliner: 77 (black)

This is everything I own by Inglot (with the mattes laid out in the same shape as the swatches above) in a Muji clear acrylic drawer, as the astute reader may notice I am not a smart girl and forgot to pick up an empty 20 pan palette to store my new shadows in. I'll hopefully get around to reviewing my metallic Inglot shadows at some point but just in case I don't here are some spoilers: they are the same quality as the Inglot mattes and outstrip Laura Mercier, Sugarpill and Urban Decay metallic shadows in every category I'd care to name.

Inglot's blush is also very nice, incredibly soft (softer than the shadows), creamy, pigmented and blends better than any pressed blush I've ever tried. I haven't opened the eyeliner yet but based on the reviews (and previous personal experience with Inglot products) it'll leave my current gel eyeliner (MAC's Blacktrack) wallowing in an inky pool of self pity.


391 / 329 / 326 / 378 / 358
363 / 360 / 344 / 390 / 353

Finally, here's my complete matte neutral palette - I played around with the order to find the most aesthetically pleasing and practical arrangement and honestly couldn't be happier with it! I'm somewhat skeptical about how the neural dark brown 329 will look when applied as even cool browns tend to look carroty on me, but if that's the case it couldn't be easier to swap it out for a pop of colour, or even a new matte neutral (I'm thinking slate grey).




One final word on Inglot - they're incredibly cheap! I'll do the calculations both in GB pounds and US dollars:

  • A single Inglot eyeshadow is £4.50 for 2.7g = £1.67 per gram
  • A single Laura Mercier eyeshadow is £19 for 2.6g = £7.31 per gram
  • A single Sugarpill eyeshadow is £8.50 (prices vary) for 3.5g = £2.43 per gram
  • A single Urban Decay eyeshadow is £14 for 1g = £14 per gram (or £9.33 per gram or £7.12 per gram depending on where you get your information)
I found a price discrepancy between Sugarpill eyeshadows being sold in the UK as they are being sold by licensed third party online retailers, however the fluctuation was only by about £1 per eyeshadow.

However, Urban Decay are only officially sold in the UK by Debenhams and House of Fraiser (department stores), on the Debenhams website they are priced £14 stating that it is £140.00 per 10g, whereas on the House of Fraiser website they're priced at £14 stating that it's £93.33 per 10g, and neither websites state how much eyeshadow a single pan contains. On the official Urban Decay US page the shadows are listed as $18 per 1.5g, so I guess I could go by that (£10.67 per 1.5g or £7.12 per gram by today's exchange rate) but I'm really not liking the lack of info for British UD stock lists.


And now in USD because google blogger tells me my main audience is stateside:

  • A single Inglot eyeshadow is $7 for 2.7g = $2.59 per gram
  • A single Laura Mercier eyeshadow is $23 for 2.6g = $8.85 per gram
  • A single Sugarpill eyeshadow is $12 for 3.5g = $3.43 per gram
  • A single Urban Decay eyeshadow is $18 for 1.5g = $10.67 per gram

Thus, irregardless of where you buy your makeup Inglot are by far the cheapest option, which is amazing considering they're also the best quality!

However it is worth mentioning that you need to buy a palette for your Inglot pans which will bump up your overall cost - the larger the palette the less this cost will be per pan or per gram. Alternatively you could just not buy a palette like I've accidentally done, or store your Inglot pans in a Z-palette type thing.


Needed to break up the block of text and calculations so here's a look I did with Inglot 363 and Sugarpill Bulletproof

Another caveat I'd like to add is Inglot eyeshadows are also cheaper than most indie eyeshadows:


  • A single Inglot eyeshadow is $7 for 2.7g = $2.59 per gram
  • Shiro's full size eyeshadow is $6 for 2g = $3 per gram
  • Fyrinnae's full size eyeshadow is $7.50 for 2g = $3.75 per gram
  • Notoriously Morbid's full size eyeshadow is $5.50 for "about 3g" = $1.83 per gram

All of these eyeshadows are loose except for Fyrinnae as they offer pan only pressed eyeshadows (which I thought would make a great comparison). I wanted to include more indies but a lot of them (Darling Girl, Femme Fatal etc) list their quantities by volume.



As always, love,

Saskia X


PS Don't expect another post for about a month as that's when I finish all my university exams! Sorry :(








Sunday, 9 March 2014

Shiro Intertube and Custom Lip Gloss Swatches and Review

It's pretty obvious why I ordered the Sad Keanu Intertube - and it's not to support my fellow Eurasian - it's because it's straight up purple and purple's where it's at. Seemingly strangely though I also ordered a custom lipgloss in blue or 'Pantone 286C' as I described it to Caitlin the owner of Shiro and creator of magical cosmetics.

Sad Keanu Intertube and Custom Lipgloss

Sad Keanu is what I'd call a very tinted lip balm stain (like the ones Revlon makes) and it can be worn sheer or somewhat opaque. It's a bright medium cool toned purple that strangely turns slightly pinker a few minutes after it's been applied, and has no smell or taste (despite supposedly being blackberry flavoured).

Although comfortable to wear the pigment doesn't apply perfectly smoothly and can end up to settling in lip lines and accentuating flakes, though it's easy to fix and prevent by rubbing you lips together and starting with smooth exfoliated and moisturised lips. You're not going to want to actually use this as a lip balm because you'll end up with an unevenly coloured mouth and although not drying this balm isn't actually moisturising either.

The wear time is better than expected for a satin lip product with no feathering and minimal transfer to drinking receptacles, and leaves behind a bright pink stain.

The photos below show Sad Keanu applied directly from the tube onto my bare mouth, I used my finger to define the edges better - it was very quick and easy to apply.

Overall I'd give it a B+ as it's a really lovely product that's just a bit let down by some uneven pigment issues.

Bare lips / Sheer Sad Keanu
Moderately opaque Sad Keanu / Stain left after 15 minutes wear

My Custom Lipgloss needs something of an introduction: I love purple - as anyone who reads this blog knows - but often find that purple lip products (and even blushes) tend to lean pink when applied due to the fact that they're applied over naturally pink skin. This fact coupled with my love for Lipstick Queen's Hello Sailor lipstick (a very sheer blue lipstick that when applied adds a subtle berry tint to your lips) gave me the idea to get a more tinted blue lip gloss that could either give me a brighter or darker berry lip than Hello Sailor when applied alone, or, when applied over pink and red lipsticks turn them slightly more purple.

I described this idea to Caitlin in an email specifying I wanted a "bright/royal/cornflower blue around Panetone 286C or OCC's Lip Tar in Rx" and also clarified that "I understand it may not come out exactly as I imagined (which is fine), and I'd be very happy with a blue lip gloss that doesn't look true purple on (or just looks outright blue) - but if in doubt I'd prefer to err on the side of more/brighter blue and more opaque coverage."

When I first opened my package I was somewhat disappointed - the lipgloss looked almost black in the tube and when applied was a dark navy blue rather than a bright/royal/cornflower blue. But, I tried it on anyway and... it looked like I was 12 years old again when my fountain pen had exploded in my mouth after I'd be chewing it throughout an exceptionally boring history class.

One swipe onto bare (but stained from above) lips / Blended out with my finger
Almost opaque / AFTER 4 SLICES OF PIZZA (while not even trying to eat tidily)

I mean, it's clearly dark blue even when applied sheerly right? However I'm not complaining because I clearly did specify that if in doubt to err on the side of blue! I also like it simply because it's a very unique custom product and given that it only cost me $8 I don't think I have anything to be upset about.

Colour issues aside the formula is absolutely incredible - a completely non-sticky gloss THAT LASTS THROUGH 4 SLICES OF PIZZA. Seriously, I know it's not perfect post-pizza but that's infinitely better than every gloss I've ever tried and almost all drugstore/high street lipsticks, especially since I'd just slapped it on for those photos and was too lazy/hungry to take it off before I ate lunch. I can't discern a scent even though Shiro states that it should smell lightly of chocolate, and it obviously stains your lips very blue.

Anyway, since I doubt I'll be wearing the gloss alone (unless it's for a costume) I decided to try it over Mac's Flat Out Fabulous - a 'Retro Matte' lipstick that's supposed to be a "bright plum" but is really just a very cool bright pink, or a fuchsia/magenta.

Mac Flat Out Fabulous + My custom lipgloss =
THE PRETTIEST PURPLE / I love it; look how white my teeth look!

SWEET BALLS OF FIRE look at it!!!! It's... perfect. Bear in mind these swatches were done hurriedly with the lipstick straight out of the bullet and the lipgloss patted on with my finger - you could get much crisper lines and a more even colour mix if you take the time to use a brush!

Mac Retro Matte formulas are exceptionally matte, which I personally love but a lot of people find them too drying to wear. When my custom gloss was applied over Flat Out Fabulous they fused beautifully together creating a creamy, completely opaque, satin finish and non-sticky lipstick-gloss hybrid.

I've previously tried 'mixing' lipsticks but always find them to be a bit meh... maybe it's because the formula's don't fuse together well or because applying one lipstick over another on your mouth isn't a particularly precise way to do it. Moreover although Lip Tars mix incredibly well with each other they don't play particularly well with other lip products - hence why I'm not singing Rx's praises at transforming any regular pink/red lipstick into a purple.

Anyway, I've been wearing this combo now for about 6 hours with no touch ups, and with no feathering, bleeding, transferring or fading despite having drunk multiple cups of tea and inhaled half a dozen biscuits. It's dried down a bit but is still very comfortable, and most importantly still just looks so incredibly beautiful.

With flash, I wish I'd taken more time to apply this neatly

This combo is almost a perfect colour match with Mac's Heroine lipstick (which I swatched here) and could probably be made into a perfect colour dupe using the correct ratios, moreover it has a far superior formula in coverage and wear, I really could not praise it enough!

If you love my custom gloss you simply select 'opaque' out of the coverage options on Shiro's custom lipgloss page and write 'Pantone 286C dupe' in the description box, or, as I have so narcissistically named it: The Saskia. Though you'll probably also want to write a quick note linking this post in the 'extra info' section at the checkout since I'm not sure Caitlin'll be able to remember my humble order over a month after I made it!

Overall 'The Saskia' Custom Lipgloss is an A+ - the formula's perfect, it applies well over bare lips even if the colour's a bit odd (and not what I originally expected), but most importantly it will (hopefully) turn any boring pink or red lipstick into gorgeous shade of purple and improve its formula overall!

I can't wait to try it out on more of my lipsticks!



If you do end up buying The Saskia (or just Saskia? Saskia's lip gloss? I don't know) please shoot me a message because I'd love to hear how you find it!


Saskia, The
X


PrettyTrivialities@gmail.com





Saturday, 8 March 2014

Purple blush!

Purple blush isn't exactly common - especially if you're trying to find it in mainstream cosmetics - Illamasqua, MAC are the only brands that make almost purple blushes, but even those are really just variations of magenta, fuchsia and plum: cool toned pinks and berry reds.

There are also brands like Shu Umera and YSL that have recently come out with blushes that resembles the colour purple in the pan but when swatched sheer out to yet another boring cool pink.

Raspberry, plum, magenta, fuchsia, burgundy... NONE OF THESE COLOURS ARE PURPLE
[photo credit linked at the bottom of this post]

I mean, technically MUFE makes a purple eyeshadow that they advertise can also be used as a blush, and Illamasqua makes purple cream pigments that can again also be used a blush... but come on now, is it really hard to just produce a classic blush formula in the colour purple?!

This is the reason that I'm now a die-hard indie cosmetics fan:

Awww yissss

Reading left to right the blushes are as follows:

  • My Pretty Zombie - Drugs Like Me Blush: 6-MAM
  • My Pretty Zombie - Drugs Like Me Blush: THC
  • My Pretty Zombie - Drugs Like Me Blush: LSD
  • Little Sparrow Cosmetics - Bluebell
  • Little Sparrow Cosmetics - Lavender
  • Little Sparrow Cosmetics - Lilac
  • Fyrinnae - Seduce
  • Fyrinnae - Temptation

These blushes may look similar in tone and colour but their nature and finish varies strongly between brands:

My Pretty Zombie's blushes are duochromes, they have a matte base that provides their primary colour and a very fine sparkle colour shift which makes them truly unique and utterly gorgeous.

Little Sparrow Cosmetic's blushes are near matte, incredibly soft and finely milled - essentially a pure colour staple.

Fyrinnae's blushes are on the metallic side of satin - they have a strong light reflecting sheen like a highlighter would - they reflect back the same colour light as the base.


MPZ sample baggies, LSC full sized pots, Fyrinnae minis - one depotted

I originally wrote this as one huge long review of all the above blushes and their respective indie companies, but for the sake of neatness and organisation I've split the reviews into their respective brands:

Click here for My Pretty Zombie Drugs Like Me blush collection review

Click here for Little Sparrow Cosmetics blush review

Click here for Fyrinnae blush review

[Sorry to be a tease, obviously none of those links work now but I'll update them asap when I've published the respective separate complete reviews]

All I can see is joy and excitement in her eyes about being turned such a delicious shade of violet


Saskia X

PrettyTrivialities@gmail.com
@aiksasarual


Photo credit for the 'not purple' collage:
http://www.illamasqua.com/
http://www.maccosmetics.com/index.tmpl
http://www.temptalia.com/mac-give-me-liberty-of-london-blush-reviews-photos-swatches
http://www.sephora.com/blush-radiance-radiant-blush-P294816?skuId=1430438&om_mmc=oth-bt-richlinks-2013